Morning at the Cluny

Saturday morning dawned with a bit of drizzle, but it had stopped by the time we left the apartment. We hopped on the Metro, our new favorite thing, and found our way to the Cluny stop.

 

Not only is this the museum devoted to the Middle Ages, but it is located partly on top of old Roman baths and the sixteenth century abbey of Cluny.

 

Note the scallop shells on the wall. I know, from Frances Temple's The Ramsay Scallop, that this was a symbol of pilgrims. The hollyhock was just a lovely bonus.

 

This statue was from an exhibit of Slovakian medieval art on display, as was the illuminated manuscript below.

 

Of course, the Cluny is most famous for the Lady and the Unicorn set of tapestries. They are as wonderful as you might expect. We didn't take any pictures, but someone else did.


The museum also houses exquisite statues, altarpieces, vestments, armor, and pews. In the end, a surfeit of Jesus for the likes of me, but it's mixed with Roman elements that generously include a Celtic god here and there, to say nothing of astrological symbols. The Romans were nothing if not practical.

Food and art

A couple things we've eaten or at least admired. First, the crepes Grand Marnier we had for dessert at Cafe le Nemours.

 

These are photos from Angelina's, the cafe along Rue de Rivoli that's known for their hot chocolate. It is indeed divine. They also sell all kinds of patisserie, which we merely admired.

 

 

We happened by Ladure, known for their macaroons, but the shop was swarming with so many people that we immediately backed out. Here's a glimpse.

 

 

Yesterday morning we toured the Louvre, using Rick Steves as our guide. It's so overwhelming that his highlights were exactly what we wanted, and all we could endure. Ingres' "Odalisque" struck me because of the warm color of her skin, which does not show up in reproductions. David's immense painting of the coronation of Napoleon is filled with lovely details.

In the afternoon we went to the Orangerie, and the collection of impressionists in an airy space was the perfect complement to the Louvre. Monet's water lilies were the highlight of a collection that includes lots of rosy Renoirs.

 

 

First day

Our first real day in Paris was filled with iconic tourist spots. The weather was brisk but sunny, and I had to buy a hat and gloves on the Ile de la Cite. Sadly, the hat makes me look exactly like Miss Marple, but no one knows me here but Alison, so I decided it's okay.

We walked through the Louvre on the way to Notre Dame. It was about 9:00, but the sun rises late enough that we felt we were there early. Henri is looking quite dashing on this statue in the courtyard. Whoops, no, it's Louis Quatorze, the Sun King.

 

A view up the Seine as we walked to l'Ile de la Cite.

 

This seems to be the thing to do along the Pont Neuf (or des Arts?) - locks, often with names inscribed.

 

This wonderful statue of Henri II (Vert, he was apparently a ladies' man) stands at the end of the Ile.

 

We walked along the quai until we turned into the street for Notre Dame. I was there in 1966 but have very few memories of it. I loved the ironwork on the doors.

 

Of course, the windows are gorgeous, even if the details are a bit vague.

 

Along the outside of the choir are painted statues that tell the illiterate (and the ill-educated) the story of Jesus. I thought this picture of Mary after the birth of Christ was a bit odd - doesn't she look simply outdone with Joseph and the animals? I'm sure that I'm misinterpreting...

 

My other favorite was on the central portal, showing St. Michael and the devil divvying up the souls at Judgment Day. Just below it is a picture of the dead lifting up the lids of their coffins and hopping out.

 

Two views of Notre Dame, one from the side and the other from across the Seine.

 

 

Of course, you really want to know what we ate: muesli and half-skim from the supermarket for breakfast, lunch at a little place on the Ile St. Louis, which I loved. I had salad with walnuts, a galette with cheese, onions and egg, and apple compote with whipped cream. Tonight we are off to Cafe le Nemours near the Louvre for dinner. I very bravely called the restaurant and had a confusing but ultimately satisfying conversation with the nice person. We have booked for 7:00, so I'm sure we'll be the only ones there. We'll see if it works...